Friday, May 17, 2019

BRUSHO RESIST

Resist techniques are always a favourite and can be used with almost any product that you can add colour with.  For these samples I used my white embossing powder to create the background, then used Brusho's, Cosmic Pixie Powder and Tonic Shimmer Powders to create the colour over the embossed images.  You can add the powder directly to the embossed images on white card, then spritz with water, or spritz with water first and then add the colour.  Alternatively, you can spritz some water on a scrap of acetate (or your craft mat), tap on some of the Brusho's (or similar), then place your embossed white paper into the Brusho's to get a more blended look with the colours.

"Furry"...

"Monday"...

"Drama"...

"Perfect"...

"Shhh"...

Tuesday, April 30, 2019

ACTION WOBBLE ATC'S

This technique is one that really needs to be seen in the flesh to appreciate how they move.  You can buy action wobbles but they are expensive and difficult to get in Australia, so I made my own.  Simply use craft wire (I used 26 gauge silver craft wire), cut about 30cm (or 12") and wrap it around a pencil.  Then cut this into little sections so they look like mini springs, about 4 coils in total.  Punch out two small circles using a hole punch, use double-sided tape (or sticky tape) to attach one of these circles to each end of the spring, then attach that to your image.  Remember to attach the spring central on your stamped image so it balances ok and make sure your stamped image is wide enough to hide the wobble.  Simple!  I like how they look on a white background with some stamping as the cut edges of the stamped image blends really well against the white background, as per "Memory" below.... though the backgrounds work well too.  😃


"Memory"...

"Lazy"...

"Esc"...

"Caged"...

"Bacteria"...
(I used some of the new Pearl Alcohol Inks on the 
background on this one and it's just on plain 
Neenah cardstock, not gloss or Yupo.  Love
the shimmer you can get with these!)

Tuesday, April 16, 2019

FAUX SHAKER #2

This is another version of Faux Shaker technique.  Last fortnight we framed an image, then stuck down the little embellishments that would be normally floating loose in a normal shaker style technique.  The biggest problem with the normal shaker technique is that you need to make sure that the little box that you create out of the foam sides is completely sealed all around so you don't lose your little embellishments.  The other issue I've found with that particular technique is the little bits can get stuck to the excess sticky on all 4 sides inside the little box.  
This technique still looks and acts like a shaker style, but without the hassle.  I used cellophane bags to encase an image.  You don't need to have the little bags exactly the same size as your image, as all you need to do is to place the image down on a piece of cellophane, wrap and tape 3 sides, then pour in your embellishments at the top, then fold and wrap the top piece.  Attach it to your background with some foam tape and you're good to go.  A tip, don't wrap the cellophane too tight as you want the bits to be able to move around freely (microbeads are absolutely the best for this technique!) and if you use other things like sequins, make sure they are flat shapes.



"Snap"...

"Stay weird"...

"Darkness"...

"Whimsy"...

"Cranky"...

"Curious"...

This is a final one from last fortnight, Faux Shaker #1, where we glued down the little embellishments so it looks like a shaker, but it's not.
"Ecstasy"...

Tuesday, April 2, 2019

FAUX SHAKER TECHNIQUE

Shaker cards are notoriously fiddly, so this is a cheats version that very simple to do.  You're still using a frame (but it has no acetate), and you're still using little embellishments like sequins (but they're not loose).  As long as your frame is raised by using foam tape, your little sequins or the like are mainly glued down the bottom (with just a few scattered up higher) you have a very simple shaker technique that can be applied to atc's or just as easily to cards.  As you can see from the 2nd example, "Shimmering", the frame doesn't even need to go right to the edges and you can have your main focal piece peeking out from under it as this one is.

"Under water"...
(The background seaweed is a die-cut from JAC double-sided
paper and then foil pressed on.  The fishing line is Liquid Pearls in silver.)

"Shimmering"...
(The frame for this one has several coats of silver, black and 
a little pink embossing powder to give it a weathered look.)

"Somber"...
(Very simple style, and yes, somber can be
spelt either as somber or sombre... trust
me, it didn't look right to me either!)

"Before"...

 "Gene Pool"...
(The background is Soot Technique over a Distress Oxide
coloured gloss card.  The frame is a chipboard frame, coloured
with a black permanent marker, then dabbed into Tumbled
Glass Distress Oxide Ink that has been mixed 
with a little water, on a craft sheet.)

Finally, another one from last week's Messy Watercolour class.
"Dinner is Poured"...

Tuesday, March 19, 2019

MESSY WATERCOLOURING

It's been a while since we've used our watercolours so thought this was a good opportunity to drag them out.  I used my Gansai Tambi watercolour palette set as well as my smaller Gansai Tambi Pearl set of 6 gorgeous shimmery pearl colours.  The trick to making this look cohesive is to repeat your colours on your images that you've stamped and the best part of all.... don't worry about staying in the lines.  Like all watercolouring, if you allow the sections to dry so you are not putting wet against wet, you won't have the bleeding issue that causes the colours to blend too much.  So the heat gun is your friend in this class.  All you need then is a little quote, an embellishment and you're done!

"Live in colour"...

"The best bugs"...
(the little bugs are stamped onto pre-sanded
shrink plastic, shrunk, then an alcohol pen
was used to add colour on the back of them)

"Dig it"...

"Sparkle"...


"Original style"...
(this one has a chipboard frame mounted
around the edge that has been embossed
with black UTEE, then while hot, a few
sprinkles of gold UTEE, heated again and
then I dragged a pin through the gold while 
still hot to move it around a little)

Monday, March 4, 2019

BURNING LANDSCAPES YUPO

While we have our soldering irons out (or wood burning tools), this is another way to utilise this particular tool with alcohol inked backgrounds on Yupo.  Unfortunately, you can't see the depth in these through a computer monitor or phone.  They are very 3-dimensional, similar to the last class where we layered the pieces of holey Yupo using little pieces of dimensional foam tape.  This time I have used larger sheets of craft foam to layer the top pieces to create depth.  So you have the background, then a piece raised on 1 piece of craft foam, then a front layer also raised on another piece of craft foam.  It looks wonderful in the flesh!  Not as fiddly as the last class but still takes a little more time than just doing a normal alcohol ink background.  Because these are so spectacular in themselves, they really don't need a lot of embellishments, hence the use of a clear sticky word on each of them.  Apart from the second one, "earth", which has some Jac paper (double-sided adhesive) cloud shapes applied and then brushed with Perfect Pearls.

"Dreamscape"...

"Earth"...

"Eclipse"...

"Dramatic"...

"Picturesque"...

"Traverse"...

Saturday, February 16, 2019

BURNING YUPO

Yupo is a synthetic substrate that artists have been using alcohol ink on for several years now, and as it is plastic, some bright spark worked out that you could burn it with a soldering iron or wood burning tool.  These are my samples.  All of the layers are created using 2-3mm foam squares to create the dimension.  To call this a fiddly process, would be the understatement of the year!  

A word of caution.... heating/melting/burning plastic is toxic and should always be done outdoors in moderation.  This is not something I plan on doing every single day so a respirator is unnecessary.  If you were considering doing this technique more frequently, look after your health and use a respirator.  I have burnt the holes/shapes beforehand and then inked on some, but have also done the burning when the Yupo was already inked and dry.  The final one, Traverse, is slightly different but the top of the hills are still burnt/melted with the soldering iron to create the shape.  You don't want to cover these up too much, hence the need for minimal decorating.  

"Firecracker"...

"Elemental"..

"Nocturnal"...

"Mushroom"...

"Traverse"...